Sometimes the best adventures happen when you least expect them. A chance meeting lead to a chance journey to a place I’d never been before, and then things just continued to become more unlikely! I met Silvia Rocchino, an Italian fashion photographer, in Bolivia at the closing event for the Foto Festival Manzano Uno in Santa Cruz de la Sierra. She is a professional photographer, based there.

A brief chat lead to a casual meal over the course of which we discovered that we were both travelling to the same town in the mountains, Samaipata, on the same day for short breaks – mine after the festival and hers for some relaxation away from work. Suddenly, coincidences all were lining up and we ended up sharing a car, along with her dog Andrea, to get there.
Having lived in Bolivia for a few years, Silvia was in the know, and suggested meeting for dinner during our stay in Samaipata as there was a restaurant she wanted to try, called Casa Chara. By this time I was just going with the flow. After all it had worked out pretty well so far. Little did I know that Casa Chara has quite a reputation for fine food and its multi-course tasting menu.
Samaipata is a small town built around a typical and rather picturesque colonial-style square. It’s very relaxed and feels slightly bohemian. I had booked a lovely eco-lodge a little out of town on the hillside, but perfectly walkable from the town centre. Silvia was in the square waiting for me when I got there in the early evening. The restaurant is slightly out of town too so we jump in a taxi for the short drive up a red dirt track to a hillside property in what seemed like the middle of nowhere.
As we walked up the steep steps our host greeted us bearing two glasses, a bottle of something sparkling and a warm, smiling welcome. It was a fresh but warm evening, so what better way to start this experience than an aperitif outdoors overlooking the hills and valley bathed in the fading last sunlight of the day? It augured well and I could already feel that this was going to be a good experience.


Casa Charo on the hillside and a warm welcome
Silvia, a self-appointed princess (tongue in cheek, I think), is the most wonderful company. She’s multi-lingual and her English is not only near perfect but she picks up on both the nuances and the humour. The conversation just flowed, way beyond the subject of photography which we have in common – but then, it had done since the first time we’d met back in Santa Cruz.
Invited into the restaurant, we walked to our table past the open plan kitchen where all of the food is prepared in full view of the guests. The decor is simple but elegant and refined, and the atmosphere felt relaxed and unhurried. Our table afforded more views across the valley and as the light faded outside and the electric lights came on, I could just make out my eco-lodge on the other side of the same valley.
Still sipping the bubbly, the taste experience began as we take in our surrounding while our host explained what was to come during the evening. Each of the six courses at Casa Chara is paired with a regional wine from either Bolivia or Chile, each sourced especially to complement the food, while accommodating personal preferences for red or white. The ethos underpinning the wine selections revolves around quality, locality, ecology and the concept of ‘small is beautiful’. No large scale wine production here: the vineyards are all smaller, often family-run businesses with limited annual production.


The view along the valley towards Samaipata
As we finished our bubbly, the first wine arrives to accompany the appetisers – four plates, four different tastes, each one beautifully prepared and presented. They fit perfectlybetween the flow of effortless conversation: – four different flavours, two bites per dish with plenty of time to savour each.
With each course the chef came to our table to tell us what we were about to taste, along with a little of the background to the food and its sourcing.
APPETISERS:
- Camote: Sweet potato crisp, fresh house-made ricotta, passionfruit gelee.
- Capuchina: Nasturtium leaf filled with preserved radishes, keffir sauce.
- Puerro: Leek Tartallete
- Remolacha: Textures of beetroot (crisp, emulsion and tartare)
For two strangers not knowing what to expect from the evening, the food or each other, the first of these ‘starters’ was a masterstroke, both in presentation and taste. It looked simple with no hint of the way it would zing on our tongues, thanks to the passion fruit. It was absolutely delicious!



Our first tastes – the apperatives
For both of us it was the best of these four tastes, closely followed by ‘remolacha’ – since beetroot is a favourite vegetable of mine. I lucked out too – the Princess doesn’t eat beetroot so I had double – two whole bites! Not only was the food beautifully presented, but everything – even the garnishes of flowers and leaves – was edible.
Silvia is the most delightful company. She is well travelled and multi-lingual, as well as being creative, erudite and open, with intelligent opinions on every topic you can imagine. Before the first course even reached the table, I understood the path which had led her to live in Bolivia, as well as most of the places she’d already lived.
As she was to do for each course, the chef came to the table to tell us what the first course arriving in front of us was. It was hard to know what to think even though we could see it so beautifully presented in front of us.

Casa Chara’s open kitchen
SANDIA
Roasted watermelon, whey sauce, basil oil.
What would you imagine this tastes like? Well, I can tell you: utterly delicious. Fresh, light and delicate, with, as we discovered, the thrill of the unexpected.

Silvia asked me my impressions of Bolivia and of Santa Cruz where she currently lives. I already knew that I’d be sad to leave. I’d had the most wonderful time, not only at the photo festival but also with the people I’d met. Everyone in this part of Bolivia is so welcoming and so kind. I’d been to the Altiplano by train from Peru, to a festive in Tiahuanacu (Tiwanaku) and to La Paz about 20 years ago, but not to the lower levels or toward the rainforest and the Pantenal. As well as the breath taking landscapes, there’s a wealth of culture, both contemporary and historical, imbued with influences from the many of the region’s indigenous peoples.
BERENJENA
Baked eggplant (aubergine), parlsey vinaigrette, pepper jam, sourdough bread.
It almost goes without saying that this was delicious too: in fact, the flavours with each of the courses are multi-layered and a new experience.
I’d come to Bolivia for the exhibitions, including the one I curated, as well as the talks and workshops I’d given at the photography festival. Silvia’s and my shared a passion for photography meant that I was fascinated as she talked about life as a fashion photographer and the opportunities in Bolivia. The economy is struggling here and the value of the local currency, the Boliviano, against the Euro, the Pound and especially the Dollar make life harder. The exchange rate changes daily and only ever in one direction.
CERDO
Pork belly, apple puree, lacto-fermented celery, pork demi-glace.
If I were to pick one less enjoyable course – although I wouldn’t go so far as to say disappointing – then it was this one, primarilybecause the pork belly was carrying too much fat for both our tastes. Not shy in speaking out, Silvia asks to speak to the chef who explains that she also was concerned when the meat arrived fresh this morning. I suppose that’s one of the perils of serving everything so fresh.


Pork Belly and the cheese platter
QUESO
Selection of local cheese, crackers and jam.
Is it even possible to go wrong with local cheeses? The three presented were all different, tasty and perfectly accompanied by the wine. We opted for the mixed drinks alternating wine with juices and light refreshing drinks, and appreciate the wines even more with each course and a fresh pallet.
A Moscatel by Bodega La Encantada in Villa Abecia, Chuquisaca, which focuses on low intervention wines, was particularly good and not at all what I would have expected. Now, with the cheese course we move on to a 2024 Carmenere by Bodega Casa Solum, a new project in Tarija. What a fabulous wine! Perfect for both the food and the setting, and one which is ideal for sipping slowly along with engaging conversation.
VANILLA
Poached pears, lime crumble, vanilla ice-cream.
Our discussions turn to love and relationships. Silvia is clearly madly in love with her Argentinian boyfriend, Raul. He’s travelling in his homeland at the moment but his return is imminent and eagerly anticipated. We’re both at very different stages in relationships at this point in time, yet there is so much common ground too. We’ve had similar experiences – broken hearts at various points on time, as well as friendships to cherish, plus new ones forming all the time. This trip alone has already brought two which I think and hope will last for life. People never cease to amaze: there are always those who have impacted us and those we’d rather leave as a dim, distant and hopefully one day forgotten memory. Even when you forget those who did make a positive impression, they still leave an imprint as a part of your journeys and an important benchmark for those you meet who sparkle in your life.
CHOCOLATE
Chocolate bonbon
I think the Princess may be a chocaholic! Her face just lit up at the arrival of our last course.


Between courses with the Princess
It wasn’t the end of the conversation though, and I, for one, didn’t want it to end. I enjoy the company of intelligent people and love to hear their views and exoeriences. To both our surprises, a glance at the time showed that more than 4 hours have passed in what felt like the blink of an eye. I guess those are the best dinners to have!
Casa Chara was a wonderful, unexpected experience. Great food and wine, a lovely atmosphere and friendly staff, all made even more delightful by my new Italian friend. As we chat to our host a slight hiccup comes to light. Can we get a taxi back to town? Not at this hour and it’s a fairly long way to walk, especially for Silvia in her fashionista shoes. “We can order you motor taxis though” out host helpfully offers. For those of you not in the know, a motor taxi is a motorbike. Just another fun turn in a fun evening.
By this point I decide that Silvia isn’t a princess. I’m renaming her as a Queen! Just imagine a glamorous queen, dressed for dinner, putting on her motorbike helmet without a care in the world. I honestly think she’d look good in anything.


Casa Chara across the valley from my eco-lodge with clouds rolling into the rainforest on the hill above
On separate bikes we headed off down the steep, rutted red track towards Samaipata. I could see Silvia looking completely at one with the moment in front of me. As we approach town I turn left toward my eco-lodge, and as I do, I saw the Queen, dressed to the nines, bouncing along on her motor taxi, disappearing into the distance! Good night Queen Silvia. Thank you for sharing this dinner and magical evening with me.
Casa Chara – review on Tripadviser
Check out Silvia Rocchino‘s photography and Silvia’s instagram
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Images © Silvia Rocchino and Chris Coe